In a sleepy town two hundred twenty-five miles south of Tokyo is the Grand Shrine of Ise, simply known by many as Jingū. This unassuming shrine, consisting of a series of natural-wood buildings set off the ground with simple thatched roofs, is considered by many to be the most sacred spot in Shinto. What makes the shrine at Ise so revered is that it is the home of Amaterasu-omikami. Amaterasu, the sun goddess, is regarded by many as the supreme deity in Shinto's vast pantheon of kami. It was Amaterasu's grandson who traveled from the heavens to earth and became Emperor Jimmu, the first emperor of Japan. This simple and austere shrine is rebuilt every twenty years following a strict protocol ensuring it will be identical to the one it replaces. This creates a dichotomy, a shrine that is new yet ancient, modern but traditional.
Our trip to Ise began with a two hour train ride through rural Japan, a striking difference from the hustle and bustle we had experienced in Tokyo and Kyoto. The naiku or inner shrine of Ise is the abode of Amaterasu. It is located on the outskirts of town tucked away in a forest of towering trees and bordered by a crisp and chilly river. To reach the shrine one first must pass under the torii, a simple and unadorned gate indicating what is to come. The faithful and tourists are then greeted by the fresh scent of cypress, wafting from the wooden bridge which stands before them. After we crossed the glistening river we move towards the temizusha, a simple roofed structure with a trough of water used to purify oneself before entering the shrine. Inside the shrine grounds groups and individuals move about and we notice that it is by far the most populated shrine we have visited. There are basic shrine buildings around the complex, places where the miko (shrine maidens) sell omamori (amulets), where the faithful can request the performance of a ritual from the shrine's priests and a few outer shrine buildings. These buildings feature the stylized chrysanthemum, a symbol of the imperial family of Japan, which hints at the connection between Amaterasu and, according to the mythologies, her descendants, the royal family. We observe people approaching ancient trees and placing their hands on them pausing as if in prayer before moving on, perhaps, a Shinto priest muses when questioned about the practice, a way for them to get in touch with the spirits of such old trees. We follow the throngs of people along the gravel pathway until we eventually come to a wide set of stairs made with large flat stones. These stairs, crowded with people, lead up to Amaterasu's shrine. As we slowly make our way amongst the crowds we move towards one more torii, through it we can see a simple building with a thick thatched roof. This is not the actual shrine but the outer gate, the closest most people will ever get to Amaterasu. People crowd within the enclosed area slowly moving to the front where they might toss a couple of coins in the offering and stand for a few moments reflecting on the experience, thinking about the well being of friends and family or making a plea to Amaterasu. Guards stand nearby to ensure the flow of the crowd and to preserve the sanctity of the experience by maintaining a no photo policy. We approach the gate as the crowd moves forward, toss a few coins, bow and clap before moving aside so more people can advance. After pausing for a few moments at the wooden fence hoping for a glimpse of the actual shrine we descend the stairs and make our way out of the shrine complex enjoying the natural beauty of Ise. |
Video of Ise's Outer and Inner Shrines
For full-screen click here.
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